Monday, July 9, 2012

PDAF Coat Muslin

Hello everyone! How have you been? I had been muslin-ing since my last post. I made the fourth (!) muslin this afternoon and I could finally give it a "good-enough" status. Whew! Considering how much amount of time I already dedicated to this project, this got to be a real love!

Now, meet my love - Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti.


First time I saw this coat was last winter. I thought it was a perfect casual coat for cold days. It was made from wool 90% cashmere 10% fabric.



This coat has princess seams in both front and back, two-piece sleeves, and flap pockets. Burda Style 8292 looked like a good starting point.


I also noticed that there was no side seams.


I combined side front and side back pattern pieces together. My first obstacle was fitting the bodice back. The smallest size of this pattern was 10. My usual pattern size is either 6 or 8. So it was bigger than me from the beginning. Plus I almost always have to adjust pattern for my thin shoulder and back. I tweaked the princess seams forever.

My second trouble was an enormous amount of ease in a sleeve cap. I reduced the sleeve-cap height by 5/8" for the second muslin. The sleeves hung right but the sleeve cap still looked too much ease in it. For the third muslin I took additional 1/2" off. The result? The sleeves did not hang right and looked twisted. Ouch! After un-reducing some change, the final sleeve-cap height became original number -3/8".

Here is my final muslin. 

In the next picture, the sleeve on the right is not hanging correctly due to reducing too much cap-sleeve height. Ease-stitching is visible on the left because I un-reduced sleeve-cap height by another 1/4".

The above picture is the bad side. Can you see the big wrinkle running from the shoulder toward the inner wrist?. The sleeve looks too long but it is only because I was clenching my fist for no reason.
Better side :)
I will be good to go as soon as I finish transferring all the changes onto the pattern paper. I feel like I already completed the project but it is just the beginning. I cannot wait to work with wool/alpaca fabric I bought for this project.

Until next time, cheers to you all! 

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